Scaling up creates raft of hurdles for small food businesses
Story by Heather Ray
Photography by Joe Laedtke
Scott Buer was all smiles during the Eat Local Resource Fair last August at the Urban Ecology Center in Riverwest. Offering samples of dry-cured salami to patrons and sharing the story of Bolzano, the business he and his wife Christin launched in 2009, was evidently an act of pure joy. Few attendees could resist a visit to their booth, wanting to meet the guy with the prized handlebar mustache and taste that artisan charcuterie that spent months in the making.
The media, too, boldly sang the praises of the beloved Milwaukee company, for being one of the few meat producers in the nation to make salami the old-fashioned way, handcrafting every batch from locally raised heirloom hogs.
So it came as a shock to the community—and to the Buers—this past spring when the USDA issued a recall of more than 5,000 pounds of Bolzano salami—one that had little to do with safety concerns, and everything to do with labeling.
The USDA stated the “products being recalled incorrectly bear the Cooperative Interstate Shipment (CIS) program version of the USDA Mark of Inspection, … Read More